VICTORIANA:A Victorian Gentlemans Attire

By ROBERT SCHOELLER

September 10, 2009

For a Victorian gentleman, there was no casual clothing. A large wardrobe was not in the equation. The walk-in closet was unknown, and closets, if they existed, were very small. It was common to have a wardrobe, similar to todays armoire.
The basics for a gentleman included a business coat, a frock coat, a dress coat and an overcoat. An economical man could get by with less. Every proper Victorian gentleman was expected to wear a coat, vest and hat. One would not appear on the street without a hat or, if in a casual mode, a cap. Top hats were in vogue during the earlier part of the 19th century always proper attire for a party and formal events throughout the century, but also worn as day wear by an established gentleman. As the century progressed, a short-brimmed derby or bowler with rounded crown became more common, and by the mid-1890s outnumbered most other hat styles. In summer, a straw boater was the hat of choice.
Vests were a staple and were deemed suitable for work in the office on the occasion one removed his coat. A great range of materials was available to give expression to ones style of dress. Silks and brocades gained popularity, but were used primarily for social occasions. The term dandy was applied to the man who took great care with his presentation of self.
Pants usually were dark, and were worn higher than slacks are today. Belts were not used, and pants did not have belt loops. Suspenders were the norm. Pants were cut straight and had no crease. The pant leg hung completely straight, covering the heel of the boot.
Shirts had a number of variations. Because clothing was laundered infrequently, men wore band-collared shirts and, for dress, added attachable collars and cuffs. Also, some shirts had a removable bib front, which was reversible to allow a man to hide any unsightly stains. This enabled one to maintain a neat appearance without requiring laundering of the entire shirt. There was nothing comparable to a sport shirt, or even a short-sleeved shirt. Very frequently, shirts were made at home. The nightshirt, the most prevalent sleeping garb, was also sewn at home. Pajamas came later and were an Indian import, as is the word pyjama.
In the earlier part of the century, the cravat, or necktie, was cut narrower in the center where it went around the neck and then widened and tied in various ways. A stickpin was frequently used, denoting by its design the gentlemans station in life. Diamond stickpins were infrequent. The Oxford tie, a narrow, straight necktie of uniform width, was worn by both men and women in the 1890s. Frequently striped, it could denote a school affiliation. A broad necktie tied in a bow was worn during the same period, and a small, neat bow was particularly favored, tied by hand or ready-made. The white cambric bow tie was to become more or less obligatory for formal evening wear. Black was seen by the turn of the century, made popular by the tailless jacket which evolved from Tuxedo Park,
New York, an elegant enclave. Commonly called the tuxedo, it is still popular today.

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